Tonight
Posted by 17:30 every service evening. The full sequence is decided after the day-boat fish arrives from Skala Oropou.
Steamed egg custard, dashi, urchin tongues. The opening course.
Astakos
Edomae gizzard shad. Salt first, then rice vinegar, until the second seating arrives.
Central market
Soba-cha and a sweet egg finished on the hot iron. The close.
The room
Months waiting
Hiroshi ordered eight cypress chairs from the Kyoto craftsman Saito-san in the spring of 2019. The first lockdown delayed the kiln, the second delayed the ship, and a reroute through Algeciras delayed the truck. Despina drew the room three times while they waited.
When the chairs arrived in February 2021, the nikiri had been reducing on a low pilot for nineteen months. The room opened on a Wednesday in March, four guests at six and four at nine. They are still on the customer book.
The counter omakase
A chawanmushi opens. Six to eight nigiri follow at Hiroshi’s pace. A hand-roll bridges to the soup, and tamago and miso close. He calls each course as he sets it down.
Steamed egg custard, dashi, urchin tongues.
Edomae gizzard shad, salt then vinegar.
Bluefin lean cut, hand-shaped, rice at thirty-six degrees.
Salt-water eel under a soy reduction glaze.
Sweet egg, hot-iron finish.
Soba-cha, citrus, a single mochi.
Seats behind the shoji
One low table, one seating, at half past seven. The menu is kaiseki, not the counter omakase: a longer arc of mukozuke, hassun, suimono, yakimono, mushimono and a rice course.
€165 per person · Pairing €72
Provenance
Seven names across two countries. We list them because they are the menu.
Day boats · Attica
Landed north of Athens in the afternoon and on the counter the same evening. What the boats bring decides the sequence.
Tuna, eel · Athens
Hiroshi walks it himself before five, which is why the menu is not set until half past.
Small ware · Aegina
Hand-thrown on the island each winter. Every bowl on the counter was made forty minutes from it.
Koshihikari rice · Niigata
A private batch grown for our shari since 2020, on its second harvest before the room had opened.
Cypress · Kyoto
The eight chairs and the hinoki counter they face. Nineteen months late, and worth the wait.
Resident sake · Ishikawa
Resident brewery for the 2024 and 2025 pairing flights. They send things no importer carries.
Sencha, soba-cha · Uji
First-flush sencha, and the buckwheat tea that closes every service.
The customer book
The counter is silent during the nigiri sequence, which is exactly right. The room remembers.
Markos Vasileiadis · Pangrati · seventy-one seatings
Journal

Eight days in salt, then in red vinegar. The cure shifts with the humidity and so do we, which is why the same fish is a different course in April than it was in December.
On yamahai fermentation, and why the third generation skipped the easy way.
How we cure mackerel for the brief course before the nigiri run.
Nine names: tempura, soba, eel, and where to sleep.
Reservations
We answer between two and five in the afternoon, Tuesday through Saturday. If the line is busy the room is being cleaned, and it is worth trying again in ten minutes.