Journal
Notes from the counter. Written when there is something worth writing down.
Recent notes
Eight days in salt, then in red vinegar. The cure shifts with the humidity and so do we.
Season notes · 14 April 2026
On yamahai fermentation, and why the third generation skipped the easy way.
Sake letters · 22 March 2026
How we cure mackerel for the brief course before the nigiri run.
Fish of the week · 9 March 2026
Hiroshi’s nine names: tempura, soba, eel, and where to sleep.
Visiting Tokyo · 18 February 2026