Wednesday

Tonight at the counter

Posted at 17:30 today. The first seating begins at 18:00, the second at 21:00. The sequence below is set after the day-boat fish arrives.

The sequence

Thirteen courses, in the order Hiroshi calls them.

Species and cure change with the day. What does not change is the arc: a hot opener, a cured fish, the nigiri run, a hand-roll, soup, tamago, and a sweet.

01

Chawanmushi

Steamed egg custard, dashi, sea urchin from Astakos.

Egg, dashi

02

Mukozuke

A small sashimi opening, cut to order.

Fish

03

Kohada, eight days cured

Salt first, then red vinegar. The cure shifts with the humidity.

Fish, vinegar

04

Akami nigiri

Bluefin lean cut over shari held at thirty-six degrees.

Fish, soy

05

Chu-toro nigiri

The medium fatty cut, brushed with nikiri.

Fish, soy

06

Hirame nigiri

Flounder, rested two days for texture.

Fish, soy

07

Kinmedai aburi

Golden eye snapper, skin seared over binchotan.

Fish, soy

08

Saba nigiri

Line-caught mackerel from Skala Oropou, briefly cured.

Fish, vinegar

09

Anago with tsume

Salt-water eel under a soy reduction glaze.

Fish, soy, sugar

10

Negitoro hand-roll

Chopped toro and scallion, nori crisped to order.

Fish, nori

11

Suimono

Clear soup. Kombu and bonito, sometimes clam.

Dashi

12

Tamago

Sweet egg, slow seven minutes, hot-iron finish.

Egg

13

Buckwheat tea and yuzu sorbet

Soba-cha, citrus, a single mochi.

Rice

The flight

Tonight’s pairing — five pours, €58.

Poured alongside the nigiri run, in the order the courses arrive.

01

Tedorigawa Yamahai Junmai

Ishikawa. Earth, lactic depth, savoury.

90 ml

02

Kuheiji Eau du Désir

Aichi. Pear, white blossom, mineral.

90 ml

03

Hiroki Tokubetsu Junmai

Fukushima. Clean, herbaceous, dry close.

90 ml

04

Tedorigawa Chidori

Ishikawa. Warmed to body temperature for the anago.

90 ml

05

Hatsumomiji sencha

Uji. Not sake, but it closes the flight.

Pot