Reserve

The menu

The Counter Omakase

One menu per night, set at half past five by Hiroshi after the day-boat fish arrives. Served only at the counter.

What the evening is

Twelve to fourteen courses, ninety minutes.

€145Per person, all in
90Minutes
08Seats per seating
€18Ikura supplement

The price includes every course, the miso, the tea and the tamago. There is no à la carte and no supplement beyond the ikura, because the sequence is built as one thing and does not come apart.

The arc is consistent — a hot opener, a cured fish, six to eight nigiri, a hand-roll, soup, tamago and a sweet — but the species and the cure depend on the day. What is fixed is the shape; what moves is the fish.

The rice

Thirty-six degrees, the temperature of a hand.

Tamago and eggs on a cypress board

Everything at an Edomae counter is judged on the shari, and the shari is judged on three things: the grain, the vinegar, and the heat.

The grain is a private Koshihikari batch from the Maeda family in Niigata, grown for this room since 2020. Periklis cooks it fresh for each seating and holds it in a wooden ohitsu, which breathes where a metal container sweats.

The vinegar is a blend of red and rice vinegar, cut so that it carries the fish without announcing itself. And the heat is thirty-six degrees, near enough to body temperature that the rice does not read as warm or cold at all — which is the point. Cold shari makes the fish taste tight; hot shari cooks it.

Kohada sliced on the board an hour before service

The standing twelve

The sequence Hiroshi calls, in order.

Two more courses are added on nights when the boats are generous. Allergens are listed against each course, and the full matrix is on the allergens page.

One — the openers

Hot, then raw

Chawanmushi茶碗蒸し

Steamed egg custard under dashi, with sea-urchin tongues from Astakos when they are running. Served in the lidded cup, and eaten with a spoon rather than chopsticks.

Egg, dashi

Mukozuke向付

A small sashimi opening, cut to order in front of you. Usually two pieces of whatever came off the boat least handled.

Fish

The cured fish光り物

Kohada or saba, depending on the boat. Salt first, then vinegar, for anywhere between six and eight days according to the humidity.

Fish, vinegar

Two — the nigiri run

Six to eight pieces

Akami赤身

The lean cut of bluefin, brushed with nikiri and set on warm shari. It opens the run because it is the clearest thing on the counter.

Fish, soy

Chu-toro中トロ

The medium fatty cut, from the belly nearer the spine. Fattier than akami and still short of the richness of o-toro, which we serve rarely.

Fish, soy

Hirame平目

Flounder, rested two days so the flesh loosens and sweetens. A drop of yuzu and salt rather than soy.

Fish, citrus

Kinmedai aburi金目鯛炙り

Golden eye snapper with the skin seared over binchotan for four seconds, long enough to release the fat under it and no longer.

Fish, soy

Saba鯖

Line-caught mackerel from Skala Oropou, briefly cured. Or the seasonal silver fish, if the mackerel is not right that week.

Fish, vinegar

Anago with tsume穴子

Salt-water eel, simmered and then glazed with tsume, a soy reduction that has been going since the room opened.

Fish, soy, sugar

Three — the close

Roll, soup, egg

Negitoro hand-roll手巻き

Chopped toro and scallion in nori crisped to order. Eat it immediately; it is built to be eaten within about twenty seconds.

Fish, nori

Suimono吸い物

Clear soup. Kombu and bonito, sometimes clam. The pivot of the meal, and the only course that is the same every night.

Dashi

Tamago玉子

Sweet egg, cooked slowly for seven minutes and finished on the hot iron. The last savoury thing, and traditionally the piece that tells you whether the counter is any good.

Egg, sugar

Reserve a seatTonight’s sequenceAllergen matrix